This DIY Media Console is made out of a 2x12 and angle irons. The shelves were designed to store vinyl records. This project is quite sturdy and could also be used as a bench with shoe storage underneath. I designed this version for my turntable, vinyl collection and audio engine speakers but it would also work well for a TV and cable boxes. This project takes about 3 hours to make and costs around $70 total.

SUPPLIES:

2x12
Available at Home Depot
I bought a 12 foot long 2x12 from Home Depot. This type of lumber can be quite rough so I took my time picking through the pile to find a nice straight one with aesthetically pleasing grain and color. I had the nice people at Home Depot cut it in half so that it would fit in my car.

2x4
Available at Home Depot
I bought a 2x4 from Home Depot. I picked a nice straight one that was close in color to the 2x12.

Angle Irons
Available at Home Depot
The vertical supports for this media console are made out of 2”by2” by 1/8” angle irons that I bought at Home Depot. They come in a veriety of different lengths. Two 4 foot long pieces would be ideal but I used a 6 foot long piece and a 3 foot long piece.

Danish Oil
Available at Home Depot
I used Danish Oil “Natural Color” to finish the wood parts.

Orbit Turntable
Available at Uturn Audio
I got a really cool turn table from Uturn Audio. I really like the clean modern design and the thick acrylic platter.

Speakers
Available at Audio Engine USA
I got a pair of the HD6 Wireless speakers from Audio Engine. The have excellent sound quality and are really easy to set up. If I don’t want to use the turn table the speakers have a Bluetooth system that can connect to my phone or other digital devices.

TOOLS:

RYOBI 18 Volt Cordless Drill
Available at Home Depot











RYOBI Angle Grinder
Available at Home Depot











RYOBI Jig Saw
Available at Home Depot











RYOBI Circular Saw
Available at Home Depot











RYOBI Orbital Sander
Available at Home Depot









Download the DIY Media Console PDF »

INSTRUCTIONS:

STEP 1: Cut the angle irons.
I used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the angle irons. I had to place the angle irons on a stack of wood blocks before I clamped it all down to my work table. I cut the flanges one at a time and had to flip the angle iron before cutting through the other side.



STEP 2: Grind the angle irons.
I tried using both an angle grinder and an orbital sander to smooth down the rough edges of the cut pieces of angle irons. The angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc does the job really well. The orbital sander works but I had to be careful not to tear through the sanding pads and damage the pad below.



STEP 3: Drill holes in the angles irons.
I selected the screws that I was going to fasten the angle irons to the 2x4 supports. I picked black drywall screws that are 1 ¼” long because the black heads match the angle irons. I used cutting oil to lubricate the drill bits and help disperse the heat. I started with a 3/16" diameter bit and drilled all the way through. I then used a 3/8" diameter bit to create a countersink hole for the screw heads. To do this I drilled into the metal just enough so that the screw head would sit flat.



STEP 4: Clean the metal.
Once I had drilled the holes I wiped down the angle irons with mineral spirits to remove grease and dirt.



STEP 5: Cut the 2x12 and 2x4 to length.
I used my circular saw to cut the two pieces of 2x12 that are the same length. I then cut pieces of the 2x4 that are as long as the 2x12 is wide which is about 11 1/4"s.





STEP 6: Cut notches in the 2x12.
I measured 8 inches in from either end of the one of the pieces of 2x12 and then used my circular saw to cut a notch that accepts one of the flanges of the angle iron. The flanges are about 1/8” thick so I needed 2-3 passes of the circular saw to make the notch wide enough. I set the blade of the circular saw to the depth of the flange of the angle iron. The jig saw would also work for this task. Once I cut notches in the first piece I used it to mark the locations on the 2nd piece so that both sets of notches would line up.





STEP 7: Sand the wood pieces.
I used an orbital sander to sand down the 2x12s and 2x4s first with 120 grit pads before finishing with 220 grit pads.





STEP 8: Screw the 2x4s to the 2x12s.
I didn’t want screw heads to show on the shelves so I decided to screw through the 2x4s and into the 2x12s. The problem was that I only had screws that were 3 ½” long which is the same length as the depth of the 2x4. I drilled half inch diameter holes about 1 inch into the 2x4s pieces and then screwed through the bottoms of the holes so that the screws went into the 2x12s about 1".







STEP 9: Fit the flanges.
I used my kiwi knife to trim one of the corner edges of the notches so that the rounded inside corner of the angle irons would fit flush into them.







STEP 10: Finish.
I finished the wood pieces with one coat of Danish oil.



STEP 11: Assemble.
I placed the top shelf upside down on the floor and then inserted the angle irons into the slots. I used a clamp to help push and hold them in place before driving in the screws.









STEP 12: Install the audio equipment and manage the wires.
I selected the HD6 Wireless speakers from AudioEngineUsa.com because they have great sound and are easy to set up. I placed them on either end and then connected them to my Orbit turn table from Uturn Audio. I used some nail in cord clips to align the cords along the back of the 2x12s. I got a really cool turn table from Uturn Audio. I really like the clean modern design and the thick acrylic platter. I got a pair of the HD6 Wireless speakers from Audio Engine. The have excellent sound quality and are really easy to set up. If I don’t want to use the turn table the speakers have a Bluetooth system that can connect to my phone or other digital devices.











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